Seed starting is easy and doesn't require much more than soil, seeds and patience. Any gardener can appreciate the benefits of home-started seedlings. If you start your own seeds, you will have a much greater variety of vegetables, flowers, and herbs to choose from than if you just go down to the local garden center to pick up six-packs of nursery-raised starts. Plants of many annual flowers and vegetables may be started from seeds indoors. Generally, vigorous plants started indoors flower sooner and produce an earlier harvest. Some, however, are best sown directly outdoors when weather conditions permit and are actually delayed by transplanting. So, what are the important elements in starting your own seeds, and what do seeds need to grow? You will see that soil, temperature, moisture, light and fertilization are the primary ingredients.
What To Look For
The proper time for sowing seeds depends upon when plants may normally be moved outdoors. This period may range from four to 10 weeks, depending on the speed with which seedlings grow and the cultural conditions in the home.
When should you start seeds indoors? That depends on the type of seed and the last expected frost date for your area. Frost dates are averages and are given as a range of dates. Once you know your last expected frost date, your seed package should tell you how many weeks ahead you should start the seeds. Count back from the last expected frost date for each type of seed you are planting and you'll have a planting schedule.
Soil: The first step is to make sure you have an appropriate growing medium for your plants. Inappropriate mixes can get rock hard after a few waterings. Your mix has to stay light and friable. For that reason, don't use plain garden soil. You may be able to find a good quality planting mix locally.
Note: Some gardeners grow seedlings in two indoor growing stages. They start them in one flat and then "pick them out" (i.e. transplant them) to another roomier flat for a few weeks, where seedling roots will have more room to grow before final transplanting into the garden. If you go this route, you might want to make your starter flats longer and shallower, say 14" by 23" by 3".
Temperature: Many seeds are native to tropical or subtropical regions and are genetically programmed to grow only in warm soil temperatures. Probably no other factor will speed up germination time more than a constant warm temperature.
Moisture: Seeds also need to be kept constantly moist in order to germinate. Two key words here: constantly and moist. Never let the germination media dry out. In other words, the mix should be kept moist, but not too wet; the consistency of a just wrung-out sponge is about right and a good standard to use. Moisten the media thoroughly before sowing, mix it well to distribute moisture evenly, and be sure it doesn't dry out afterwards. One easy aid is to drape a sheet of plastic wrap on top of newly planted seeds to keep moisture in. Be sure to check every single day to see if any seeds are starting to sprout. If they are, immediately remove the cover so they can get some light and air circulation.
Light: Most seeds don't need light to germinate, just warmth, moisture, and darkness. This applies only to germination or sprouting; after the seedling appears above the soil, light is a necessity.
Fertilization: Fertilization is not necessary for seeds, as they carry their own food and have enough food energy to germinate on their own. Young seedlings, on the other hand, will need a weak fertilizer to grow successfully.
Healthy Tips
Steps to seeding
- Fill the container up to 3/4 inch from the top with the mixture to be used. It should be moistened before filling if the mixture is dry. Make sure the container has adequate drainage. Before filling, cover holes or cracks in the container with sphagnum moss or broken crockery.
- Using a narrow board or large wooden label, make shallow rows about 1 to 2 inches apart in the flat. When different seeds are used in the same container, they are easier to keep track of if planted in rows. If only one type of seed is used, it may be scattered or "broadcast" over the surface.
- Sow the seeds uniformly and thinly in the rows. Many small round seeds may be slowly dropped in the rows by tapping the package as it is held over the rows. Label each row promptly with plant type, variety and date of planting.
- Keep newly transplanted seedlings in the shade for a few days, or place them under fluorescent lights. Keep them away from heat sources. Continue watering and fertilizing as was done in the seed flats
- Large-seeded vegetables such as cucumber, cantaloupe and watermelon should be planted directly into peat pots. Other seeds may also be handled this way to save transplanting, but sowing is difficult with very small seeds. Some small seeds are now available in "pelletized form" to make handling easier. Plant two seeds per pot and later thin to one plant. This saves later transplanting and means less root damage at planting time.
Moving plants outdoors
Hardening: Plants that have been growing indoors can't be planted abruptly into the garden without injury. To prevent any damage, they should be "hardened" before planting outdoors. This process should be started at least two weeks before planting in the garden. If possible, plants should be moved to cooler temperatures outdoors in a shady location. A cold-frame is excellent for this purpose. When first put outdoors, keep in the shade, but gradually move plants into sunlight for short periods each day. Gradually increase the length of exposure. Don't put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days or when temperatures are below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Reduce the frequency of watering to slow growth but don't allow plants to wilt. Even cold-hardy plants such as cabbage and pansy will be hurt if exposed to freezing temperatures before they have been hardened. After proper hardening, however, they can be planted outdoors, and light frosts will not damage them.
Resources
Barry, RM. The Melaleuca Wellness Guide; RM Barry Publications, Colorado: Littleton, 2005
http://gardening.about.com
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/landscap/h1139w.h